In the world of luxury textiles, not all cashmere is created equal. The difference between standard cashmere and premium dehaired cashmere can mean everything when it comes to the feel, durability, and value of your finished products.
What is Dehaired Cashmere?
Raw cashmere fiber comes from the undercoat of Capra hircus goats, primarily found in Mongolia and China’s Inner Mongolia region. Raw cashmere contains:
- Primary fibers: The soft, fine undercoat that becomes premium cashmere
- Guard hairs: Coarse outer fibers that cause irritation
- Vegetable matter: Dirt, hay, and other debris
Dehairing is the process of removing these impurities, leaving only the finest fibers. Premium dehaired cashmere undergoes multiple passes through specialized equipment to ensure minimal guard hair content, typically below 0.1%.
Cashmere Grade Classifications
Grade A (Premium)
- Fiber diameter: 14-15.5 microns
- Fiber length: 36-44mm
- Color: Pure white to cream
- Applications: Luxury knitwear, fine woven fabrics
Grade B (Standard)
- Fiber diameter: 15.5-16.5 microns
- Fiber length: 30-36mm
- Color: White to light grey
- Applications: Mid-range apparel, accessories
Grade C (Below Standard)
- Fiber diameter: 16.5+ microns
- May contain higher guard hair content
- Often processed with more chemicals
Why Fiber Diameter Matters
The micron count directly affects how the cashmere feels against skin:
| Micron Range | Feel | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 14-15.5 | Exceptional softness, no irritation | Baby garments, premium scarves |
| 15.5-16.5 | Soft, minimal pilling | Everyday luxury knitwear |
| 16.5-19 | Noticeable coarseness | Industrial applications |
Our Sourcing Standards
At Golden Fleece, we specialize in premium dehaired cashmere and cashmere tops with these specifications:
- Fiber diameter: 15.5 microns or below
- Dehairing standard: Less than 0.1% guard hair
- Color grading: Only Grade A white/cream fibers
- Origin: Direct partnerships with Mongolian and Chinese producers
Cashmere Tops: The Premium Intermediate
Cashmere tops are dehaired fibers that have been combed and aligned parallel, creating an intermediate product ideal for:
- Fine yarn spinning: Consistent quality for smoother, stronger yarn
- Woven fabric production: Better dimensional stability
- Luxury blending: Perfect for mixing with silk or other fine fibers
Conclusion
Understanding cashmere quality is essential for textile buyers and manufacturers. Premium dehaired cashmere commands higher prices but delivers superior softness, better processing characteristics, and end products that maintain their luxury feel for years.
Partner with Golden Fleece for your premium cashmere sourcing needs. We supply directly from origin with full traceability and quality certification.